Thonburi with Kids: Canals, Monkeys and an Easy River Crossing

Why cross the river at all

Most families base themselves east of the Chao Phraya, around Siam, Sukhumvit or Silom, where the BTS Skytrain does the hard work of moving you around. Thonburi, the west bank, has only two BTS stops of its own at Krung Thon Buri and Wongwian Yai, so it rewards people who are happy to mix the Skytrain with boats and the odd taxi ride. What you get in return is space: klong-side lanes, market streets and temples where children can walk rather than be carried through crowds.

The practical rhythm is to sightsee early, retreat for a swim and lunch, then head back out at about four in the afternoon. November to February is the comfortable window, with daytime highs around 31 to 33 degrees and little rain. March to May is hot and hazy. June to October brings afternoon downpours that usually clear within an hour but can flood low lanes near the canals, so pack sandals for the children rather than trainers.

Wats, a giant swing and a very big lizard

Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn, sits on the Thonburi bank and is the obvious first stop. Cross by the public ferry from Tha Tien pier, a two-minute hop that costs a few baht and is itself a highlight for children. Go at 8.30am when the gates open; by 10am the central prang is crowded and the steps are hot underfoot. Nearby Wat Kalayanamit and the Santa Cruz church quarter are quieter and free to wander, and the lanes behind them sell sweets and cold drinks cheaply.

For something livelier, the Siriraj Medical Museum on the Thonburi side is famous for its preserved specimens, but it is genuinely not for young children or the squeamish. Skip it under about twelve years old. Instead, take a longtail boat from Tha Chang or Tha Tien through the canal network; a one-hour charter is the usual arrangement and should be agreed before boarding. You will see monitor lizards, stilt houses and children waving from the banks, which beats any theme park for most families.

Markets, monkeys and where to sleep

Wongwian Yai, the roundabout at the heart of Thonburi, has a busy morning market and a steady stream of commuter trains to Mahachai. It is a good hour of wandering rather than a half day. Further out, the Talat Phlu area along the BTS line is where local families eat in the evening, with open-air restaurants and dessert stalls around the station. For monkeys and greenery without leaving the city, Phutthamonthon is a long taxi ride west and better suited to a half-day picnic than a quick stop.

On hotels, the choice is between the riverside resorts around Krung Thon Buri, which tend to run mid-range and above and have pools, and the smaller guesthouses near Wongwian Yai, which are cheaper but rarely have a pool or much space for a family of four. With young children I would book the riverside side, close to Krung Thon Buri BTS, and accept the ten-minute walk to the station. Check the room capacity carefully: many Thai rooms are priced for two adults with children sharing existing bedding.

Getting around without the meltdown

Thonburi is not a walking neighbourhood in the way the old town east of the river is. Distances between the temple cluster, Wongwian Yai and the riverside hotels are two to five kilometres, which is a taxi ride rather than a stroll in the heat. Grab and Bolt both work well here and are usually quick to arrive; agree a meter or app price before setting off. The BTS Silom line crosses at Saphan Taksin and connects at Krung Thon Buri, so a hotel near either station saves a lot of negotiation.

Boats are the better transport with children: the Chao Phraya Express Boat stops at Tha Tien, Tha Chang and Phra Arthit on the east bank, and cross-river ferries run constantly for a few baht. Keep the pace to one temple, one boat ride and one meal out per half day. Skip the floating market day trips sold on every corner; they leave before dawn, involve two hours each way by minibus and are a poor fit for tired children. A canal charter from your own pier is shorter, cheaper and just as memorable.